February 20, 2012 § Leave a comment
Remember we talked about Abigail Stewart back in late December here, dear readers?
Her collection for F/W2012, Bone Machine, is named after Tom Waits’ 1992 studio album. Waits’ magical musical reality is surrealistic and dreamlike. During concept development they drew on the imagery of dried bones, midnight landscapes, shapeshifters, and hauntings. The resulting garments reflect the ethereal quality of ghosts, but are confined to skeleton-strict structures. The pieces either hover around the body – as an apparition cleaves to its former earthly shape – or they act as an extension of the body’s form. They used fabrics that appear weightless, like satin-faced organza and handwoven brushed mohair, and molded them with controlled seamlines. The palette recalls phantoms, fossilized bones, and moonlight.
They are proud to screen “Love & Bones,” a short narrative by Brooklyn-based THEJACKSFIRM. Inspired by the Virginia Woolf story “A Haunted House,” this visual poem explores the return of two long-separated ghosts to their former home, where a young couple currently dwells. The piece is a creative collaboration between our studio and THEJACKSFIRM. The ghosts wear several garments from Bone Machine.
ABOUT THE FABRIC
The mohair fabric in this collection was woven by master weaver Beyond the Fringes (New England). The yarn is sourced through Be Sweet, a California fiber producer dedicated to creating sustainable materials via craftswomen in economically depressed regions of South Africa. The fabric is woven from spun boucle (a yarn characterized by its tiny loops). After weaving, the material is put through an extensive washing and hand-brushing process that pulls the boucle loops out and creates the hazy finish seen on these pieces.